MEN ALSO
Men have the same general characteristics as women' s body shapes. The shoulder lines, either straight or sloping are the same, the top hipbone has the same comparison, and men first put on weight in the same areas as their women counterparts.
OVAL
MEN
Shoulders slope gently down. There are indications of gentle oval shape to legs, chest and derriere. They have a lower top hipbone. Oval bodies most often have oval heads as well. Oval men first put weight on through their abdomen area and tend to become cylindrical when they are heavy.
CIRCLE MEN
Sloping shoulders, extra muscle between neck and top of shoulder. Flesh spot on upper outer arm. They have a lower hip bone and fuller derriere. Circle men first put on weight around the hips.
SQUARE MEN
Shoulders are also straight across and thicker as well. They have straight down thighs and are more straight up and down through the torso area. They have a high top hipbone.The rectangle shape is simply taller and not as boxy and thick as the square. Square shaped men first put weight on through the waist.
TRIANGLE MEN
Shoulders are more straight across, but they are not as straight and boxy as square body types. They are broad across the shoulders and have a V silhouette down toward a small waist. They have a high top hipbone right at the waist. Puts weight on first through the thighs.
Type 2 has very broad shoulders and narrow hips, so the V silhouette goes from the shoulders on down to the ankles. They also have a high hipbone right at the waist. Puts weight on first through the chest.
Overall, men and women have these general differences — men are basically more square (masculine) in shape than women; women, being women, naturally are more circlular (feminine) in shape than men. Men's pants have a shorter rise than women's pants (women need more "womb" space).
All men can wear modified classic oval lines. Men look wonderful in suits because suits have set-in sleeves. Oval and Circle shaped men have to wear set-in sleeves. The square body is the best type for drop-sleeve style jackets and shirts because this type sleeve allows more movement room for square-boxy shoulders. The triangle body form looks best in extended shoulders and sleek pants that follow the angled line of this body shape. For all body types, length of jackets should come to where the hand cups — even 1/4" too long or short looks awkward.
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The oval male body has many of the same characteristics as the oval female body. The shoulders slope down and the top of the hipbone is set lower. Head shapes on oval bodies are usually oval. Jimmy Stewart and Jerry Seinfeld are good examples of classic oval body types. This body shape is generally taller than the other body types. If they put on weight, their torso areas become more ellipsoidal or egg-shaped. Classic styles are a must in this category. Keep smooth lines on shoes and boots, no overhang or flange soles. No flaps or obvious top-stitching on clothing. Keep plackets, set-in yokes and complicated lines to a minimum. Important to wear fine quality fabrics that have a medium soft hand, very fine knits, silk ties and shirts. The oval lines are naturally sophisticated. JACKETS Set-in sleeves at shoulder pivot bone PANTS No pleats BELTS COLLARS Close-set collar tips TIES Silk and of fine quality |
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The men's circle body has many of the same characteristics of the woman's circle body. Rounder lines all around. Smaller circle types can wear sleek European lines. Wear softened, curved, subtle lines for genteel look. Be sure clothing is well fitted or tapered. No extra bulk. Can wear slightly fuller sleeves and simple round necklines. Fine edgings or fine-stitching on shirts. No busy military or heavy textured effects. Shoes, smooth European look. JACKETS Slimmer European cuts PANTS No bulky pleats SHIRTS Classic dress shirts COLLARS Spread collar tips (rounder line for rounder body) |
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The man's square body has squared-off shoulders and a very high-set hipbone and less waist indent. The shoulder area is thicker through which calls for fuller-fitting sleeves such as raglan and full-cut shirts. Lines can be squared, off-centered, busy, tailored, casual or sporty. This is the natural home of the English country gentleman, patch elbows and all. Wing-tip and casual shoes with over-hanging soles fit into this category. Sweaters of every kind. Body can handle overlays of clothing because of straight body shape. JACKETS Straighter up and down cuts PANTS Pleats in pants (no angled pleats) BELTS SHIRTS COLLARS Button-down (square men have flat planes so collar needs to lay flat to body) TIES Wool or textured ties are appropriate and special mention for this category |
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The man's triangle body wears high fashion better than any of the other body types. The body is wide through the shoulders and trim through the hip area. Prefers pants without pleats or fullness, but like the professional model, can wear all classic styles. JACKETS Athletic cut styles COLLARS Can handle extreme points TIES Triangle types go with trends or they tend to look out of fashion |
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TYPE 2 TRIANGLE The Type 2 triangle body will be relatively larger through the upper torso and small through the hips and thigh area (think of a lion). This body type prefers to accentuate this look with pants that are without full pleats. |
Men's dress
is best explained through comparison. Being aware of differences will
allow you to choose what is best for you. All men wear the classic men
OVAL lines, but the circle, square and triangle body types can extend
their choices to lines that are easily worn on their body frames. However—oval
men need to wear classic OVAL lines.
The following clothing lines flow easily on its natural body type, however,
if you adapt the other lines you will know what they communicate and
can use them intelligently.
Remember: The terms Oval and Winter / Circle and Summer
/ Square and Autumn / Triangle and Spring, are used interchageably because
they indicate the same feeling expression.
OVAL
(Winter)
This is a very sophisticated category. Follow the simple flow of the classic line; oval, stately, regal, dignified and strong. Invest in classic styles that last. Create striking contrasts with simple two-tone color schemes—never combine more than three colors. Avoid fussiness or tailored busyness, western, military or extreme sporty looks. No cuffs, extra buttons,flaps or ornaments. |
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CIRCLE (Summer)
| Use traditional lines adding refined genteel or "European" feeling. Wear softened, curved and blended lines for an elegant look. Be sure clothing is well-fitted and tapered—no extra bulk. Smaller detailed work is excellent; white-on-white, fine edgings and stitching on shirts. May wear fuller sleeves and simple plain necklines. Keep away from heavy military, sport or coarse looks. |  |
SQUARE (Autumn)Think of the "English Country Gentleman" with a full range of flexibility into tailored, casual and sporty lines. Lines can be asymmetric, busy and more complicated. Military pleats and button-down effects are good. Use extra flaps, cuffs, overlays (sweater pr vest over shirt), top-stitching, buckles, cable stitching, leather buttons, leather patches on sleeves and pockets. Combine different textures, such as suede and knit. |
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TRIANGLE (Spring)| High fashion, original style and strong accent of colors are very important. Use dramatic lines, exaggerated (large or unusual) collars, cuffs, inset yokes and sleeves. Western styles, mandarin collars, Spanish, Indian or foreign lines and designs are appropriate and give colorful accents. Use contrasting colors for piping, collars, cuffs, trims, accent linings, decorative stitching and buttons. |  |
Accessories include shoes, wallets, belts, key holders, briefcases,
gloves, hats and luggage for all seasons. Included here are the colors
that coincide with the lines in each category. Best basic shoe and
belt color should match the darkest tone of hair color.
OVAL (Winter)
Accessory Colors — black, navy, charcoal, dark brown, wine, dark taupe, gray and maroon. Shoes — Classic, smooth,
well finished. No extra stitching, over-hanging soles, raised
moccasin toes, saddle casual looks, extra buckles, straps,
large eyelets or laces. Keep boots plain. |
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CIRCLE (Summer)
Accessory Colors — taupe, bone, wine, grayed brown, gray, charcoal, wine, maroon, French blue, light gray, pastels and white. Shoes — Smooth "European" look. Keep stitching line and nicely finished. No over-hanging soles, bold top-stitching, large eyelet holes, extra buckles or straps. Use soft leathers, mesh or perforated designs. Can wear two-tone or light shoes that match hair color. |
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SQUARE (Autumn)
Accessory Colors — brown, tan, camel, beige, orange-tan, teal blue, rust, gold, olive and cream. Shoes — Any style is appropriate, butr special earthly looks are wing-tip, raised moccasin toes, saddle shoes, thick soles, top-stitching, laces, straps, flaps and buckles. Boots are excellent. Natural leathers. |
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TRIANGLE (Spring)
Accessory Colors — warm brown, red brown, cordovan, wine, gold, teal blue, rust, catrametl and cream. Shoes — Use unusual simulated leathers; lizard, snake and alligator. Multicolored leather patterns, and patents are good. Western boos and belts, wedge soles, large shoe buckles and elaborate scandals give a Spring feeling. |
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Men's hairstyles have become as interesting and vaired as are women's. Presented below are guidlines for balancing your lines through your hairstyle. Longer hairstyles give a genteel expression; shorter hairstyles give a masculine, down to business expression; medium length gives a classic expression; full hairstyles give an exaggerated expression.
OVAL (Winter)
| Symmetric, classic lines. Medium length is best — halfway over the ears and soft around the neck. Natural dark hair color is recommended. |  |
CIRCLE (Summer)
| Hair may be worn longer and allowed to curl softly. This category looks better without a definite side part. Naturally curly hair is typical of this category. |  |
SQUARE (Autumn)
Asymmetric or angled lines make a side part very appropriate in this category. Hair may be worn shorter or straight and longer. Clipped-to-the-head cuts suggest a down-to-earth business or efficient feeling. |
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TRIANGLE (Spring)
| Unique and original styles. Full, asymmetric and exaggerated lines have full sway here. Long curly hair or extreme comb-back fit into this category. |  |
Designs and patterns are important for you to pay attention to, and can add so much zip to your appearance if chosen with awareness of lines which are balanced and compatible with your features. Your features set the template for your best designs; how features are spaced and the lines they create on your face is your Keysize. See Bow Tie Tester to test your features and see if you are a small, medium, large or extra large Keysize.
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Your “Keysize”
tells if you wear small, medium, large or extra large textures
and patterns. The Keysize is determined by the spacing, size
and positioning of a person’s eyebrows, eyes, nose and
mouth. |
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A large Keysize has features spread out over the face.
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A small Keysize has features set close together.
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If you are not sure, medium and small patterns
are good for everyone. This includes button sizes, belt widths,
jewelry sizes, lapel widths, patterns on ties, large or fine stitching
on edges, sunglasses, rings, watches and buckles. The following examples
of dots, stripes and checks will give you an idea of the comparisons.
OVAL (Winter)
Designs are set, still, quiet, calm, even, definite, striking and symmetric. Patterns include equal stripes, polka dots, geometric, check and other patterns which are set, repeated and balanced. Avoid patterns which are off-center, paisleys, faded, obscure, busy, uneven and wondering. The most effective WINTER desing is simply to contrast light colors against dark colors. |
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CIRCLE (Summer)
| Designs
suggest small detail, blended tones or the elegant understatement
that says it all. Patterns can be lightly marbled, blended stripes, small polka dots, full bloom flowers, small geometrics, and small checks. Use blended colors, tone-on-tone, water color effects, or monochromatic schemes with three to five values of one color. |
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SQUARE (Autumn)
| Designs
suggest multifaceted expressions of busyness, enrichment, practicality
and naturalness. Patterns can be plaids, random dots, paisleys, textured, all-over, chevron, random stripes, "true-to-life" scenes of nature, complex Persian effects, rick-rack and cross-stitching. Patterns should reflect the warm multiple colors of Autumn. |
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TRIANGLE (Spring)
| Designs are exaggerated
and accented with bright colors. Patterns include undulating random stripes, animated geometrics, border prints, colorful embroidery, obscure backgrounds with outstanding characters, mitered designs and exaggerated random dots. Patterns can be outlined with black or accented with white. |
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Women wear flattering pinks and reds in their makeup ¾ men wear pleasing pink and red accent colors in their ties and shirts. This adds healthy color to skintones. Be aware of your Homebase pink and red colors and repeat them in your color schemes.
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WINTER |
SUMMER |
AUTUMN |
SPRING |
Men often have a problem with their eyebrows thinning or graying, which tends to make the person appear expressionless. The ends of the brows thin first, which takes away from the look of breadth through the forehead, which is needed to project a strong masculine statement — to be a "LION" rather than a "deer" you need to show the whole natural brow line. Deers have narrow faces, and even though they are graceful and swift, the Lion is KING of the forest.
These men can darken their brows by dying, brushing with mascara or using a hard brown or charcoal pencil. Carefully done, the effect is natural (certainly more natural than no eyebrows!). The added shaded color makes men look younger because it brings their features back into focus, fills in the original hair color and keeps them from looking washed out.
After men try it, they are convinced — eyebrows are as important for men as they are for women.
GREAT TIP FOR BALDING EYEBROWS: These balding eyebrows can be darkened by using a hard Stanford Design Ebony art pencil #14420. Even though the pencil says "Jet Black Extra Smooth", it is actually a non-lead pencil with a hard lead that will look natural as you color in the area in the brow that has become sparse. If you have any Winter (dark coloring in hair, hair roots or even dark eyes) in your coloring, this will always work. However, if you are lighter in coloring, then you will have to experiment with a brown pencil.
Suits are basic for men. Everyone can wear classic
black, charcoal and navy colored suits. However, your own hair
and eye colors dictate the accent and accessory colors that connect
you to your outfit. The Law of Attraction
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WHAT'S WRONG WITH THIS PICTURE? |
NOW SWITCH THE HEADS...(or clothes) |
Notice that the colors on these men are all scrambled. The black haired
men have on warm brown, beige and gold colors
in their clothing; the brown-haired men
have cool black, gray-taupe and silver colors in their clothing.
Nothing matches.
Now the wardrobes are switched and dark hair is repeated with cool dark colors, and warm hair is repeated with warm colors.
1. The classic white shirt, black pants, bluish-red tie, black shoes, silver belt buckle and watch.
2. When wearing an outside color (camel), combine it with black, white and silver. Make sure a matching light (camel) shoe has a dark sole and heel.
3. Navy blue pants will substitute for a dark color.
4. Cardovan shoes will be all right if black, white and silver are used.
5. Ash olive slacks are excellent if worn with stark white, black and silver.
6. Charcoal gray is good and should be worn with stark white, black and silver.
7. With outside colors such as tan, sand or oatmeal, combine with black. A bronze buckle is good and notice the soles of the shoes are black..
All men can wear black shoes because the strong image of a man calls forth a sturdy, dark foundation represented by a dark shoe color. Even though it is balanced to have the top and bottom of the person's "frame" match, a light haired man can still wear dark colored shoes as well as light shoes; dark haired men are more limited in shoe colors, but if they do wear a light shoe, it will be bettter if balanced with a black sole that will connect to the dark hair (see example above). Men with white hair can obviously wear white shoes with a dark sole; cream colored white hair is best with cream or tan shoes and a darker sole.
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Click The Check On Your Category
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FOR SUMMER MEN  |
FOR AUTUMN MEN |
FOR SPRING MEN |
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Summer Homebase with
Autumn Influence |
| FOR
DARKER BALANCED COMBINATIONS Winter Homebase with
Autumn Influence |
RETURN TO TOP or continue to WOMEN
OVER 40
Copyright © 1985 By Irenee Riter All Rights Reserved