MAKEUP

Again, lip colors have been organized into harmonic sequence which tells where your Homebase lip and cheek colors are, and offers a guide for balancing makeup according to different occasions and different lighting effects. 

For all the exotic names and countless shades of lip colors available, lip colors actually fall into only six basic categories—yellow red, blue red, coral, pink, plum and wine. You can actually mix any lip color with a blue-red, yellow-red, brown and very light dusty pink.

   

When balanced properly with lip color, a person's lips become a small portrait of their entire color scheme, showing the exact right proportions of contrast, warm, cool, light, dark, muted or brightly applied color. For example, if someone wears a color that is too cool for their skintone, they can add a touch of coral (a warm color) to their makeup and it works. If a color is too warm, then add a touch of pink. Evening light requires more intense color in makeup if a touch of the dramatic is wanted.

Adjust To Your Natural Coloring          Your best reds and pinks represent your          "Homebase" colors:          Cool skintones need warm makeup colors.          Warm skintones need cool makeup colors.          Balanced skintones need balanced colors.

Adjust To Wardrobe Colors          Wardrobe colors that are outside your          basic Homebase colors can be balanced by           adjusting your lip color. If a garment is too           cool for your skintone, balance it with a          touch of warm lip color. If a garment is too          warm, balance it with a touch of cool lip          colors.

Adjust To Lighting Conditions         Your makeup colors will look different from         day to night. Daylight is white and cool, so         use more colors from the right half of the         color-oval to warm and soften your makeup.         Evening light is diffused and warm, so use         colors from the left to clear and brighten.         Fluorescent and photo flash bulbs are         cool, thus they require warmer balanced         colors.

Adjust For Various Occasions And Moods                               For dramatic -   add clear bright red/orange           For casual -   add brown and coral           For natural -  add browned pinky-coral           For delicate - add dusty pink/cranberry           For formal -   add blood red/dark pink           For dressy -   add cherry red/dark coral

Women wear flattering pinks and reds in their makeup — men wear pleasing pink and red accent colors in their ties and shirts. This adds healthy color to skintones. Be aware of your Homebase pink and red colors and repeat them in your color schemes.

WINTER blood red   hot pink    maroon  dusty pink  silver accent

SUMMER  cranberry red pink maroon  dusty pink  silver accent

AUTUMN    burnt red coral  rust  wine gold  accent

SPRING    bright red     orange red rust wine gold accent

 

It is important to state here that charcoal gray is the basic eye shadow color for all the Homebase categories. The color gray plays a very important role in adding definition to eye contours because gray is also the color of the contours of the face and hair tones. Gray is the basic balanced eye color because complementary colors mixed together create gray. Gray tends to take on tones of whatever color it is next to, therefore it merely repeats and fills in without taking away from a classic appearance. Colored eye shadow can be worn in the evening or for emphasis when in costume. Notice, while grayed down, the colors are still arranged in harmonic sequence.   

     

The brow line sets the contours and expression of the whole face. You eyebrow line can make you look mad, unhappy, surprised, worried etc.  — expression you might not wish to intentionally project. Isn't it interesting how changing a line alters the feeling?

What appears to be a perpetual scowl can be erased by eliminating a few hairs or allowing a few to grow in.  Follow these guidelines to redefine the natural brow line.  No matter what shape your face is, these guidelines are universally classic and work in proportion to your unique structure. Don't underestimate how important these subtle instructions are — people are amazed when they see the results.   

The width through the forehead is set by the upper peak on the eyebrow, consequently, be sure to emphasize these peaks with a pencil if the hair in the eyebrow is very light. The turn is at the outside point of the iris — it can be further out (especially on people needing Spring colors or having exaggerated dramatic feature lines, but never closer.

The tail should be longer than usually shown in makeup books — if only by a thin line of hair or pencil. The eye needs to have a complete and natural frame and not end too abruptly. This is important.

The eye will now be opened up and lifted by the underside peak on the brow — the under- side peak must be a little bit further out than the peak on the top side. If the upper and lower peaks turn down at the same point the eyes get a scrunched-together look. This little trick of keeping the under peak moved out makes a lovely, classic balanced brow line on everyone. Even a few hairs moved over (and out) makes a big difference.

HINT: Buy an DESIGN Ebony Art Pencil 14420 Jet Black Extra Smooth in an art store to trace and fill in your brow line. It is a soft charcoal color on the skin and if you have any Winter influence at all, it is perfect. Looks natural and not drawn on. 

NO BLEACH PLEASE!

People with very light hair and dark eyebrows, make a mistake bleaching their dark eyebrows lighter. This throws everything out of balance. They not only lose much of their expression, but give up the one dark contrast accent to repeat in their frame for a striking appearance. There is a reason for everything, and dark eyebrows with light hair is a very unusual beautiful expression — don't ruin it!

Men often have a problem with their eyebrows thinning or graying, which tends to make the person appear expressionless. The ends of the brows thin first, which takes away from the look of breadth through the forehead, which is needed to project a strong masculine statement (a "lion" rather than a "deer".)

These men can darken their brows by shading them lightly with the DESIGN Ebony art pencil. Carefully done, the effect is natural — certainly more natural than no eyebrows. The color makes them look younger because it brings their features back into focus, and  keeps them from looking washed out.

After men try it, they are convinced. Eyebrows are as important for men as they are for women.

Foundation should be so subtle it is not noticeable. If your skintone is balanced, match it as closely as possible. If you skin is more sallow or yellow, the cooler pink tones in your foundation will bring balance; if you skintone is very cool, then the yellow beige tones add warmth. Add whatever is missing to bring your skintone into moderate balance. Otherwise, do not add more beige-yellow tones to a warm skintone. Foundations should merely blend skintones for a smoother, unblemished look.  

We have discovered something interesting about what to wear when your hair is dirty. You want to go out but you don't have time to wash and redo your hair. It is nice to know a trick that immediately fixes this. You have something easy to slip into like a jumpsuit or special T-shirt that makes you look good for when these times come up. But, it has to be in your most flattering color — and, that color must have   red   in it to add the flush of well-being and health in the same way red/pink makeup freshens up your look.  If the color is maroon or burgundy it will give depth and lush to your hair color.

Personal Experience...My hair is a soft black, and soft black colors are better on me than black-black. When my hair needs a color treatment or is dirty, it appears lighter and the ends even seem brownish. The Law of Attraction can assist or hinder at this point. The flip-over phenomena kicks in. If my hair is clean, shiny and at it's best, and my makeup is carefully done, I can wear black/black — especially at night with warm lighting. However, if my coloring drops a bit and I am in outdoor daylight, black/black makes my hair color flip over and appear lighter in contrast. Even soft black seems harsh against these daytime odds. I find that if I slip into dark burgundy or wine, suddenly my skin and hair takes on a flattering overall connected full-color look — the look is not as striking as black and white, but it is warm, rosy and attractive. I have a deep wine-colored stretchy jumpsuit that has a soft black shadowed texture to it that enhances the depth and color of my hair, my dark eyes, and adds pink tones to my skin. It amazes me how good I can look in this outfit in the face of other things I may try to get away with wearing, but that just leave me feeling somehow undone. So, have something ready for those times, and you will have the satisfaction of knowing what a little good color can do to add to your feeling of well-being.

Experiment with your colors until you zero in on your "dirty hair special".  Remember, your special colors will match your eye color or the exact tone of your hair.  Everyone can wear wine or burgundy because they are balanced colors. Try it and then write and let me know what you discover.

See Advanced Study / Flip-Over Phenomena Explanation