CLOTHING LINES
There is a scientific, precise mathematical basis for
each person's clothing lines. It is vital that clothing lines fit your
body structure so that clothing can ride easy on the form of your frame.
Right clothing lines are maybe more important
to your feeling of well-being than your right colors. The feeling
of things being not quite right, of having to pull your tummy in all
the time, or the need to constantly re-tuck, pull-up or re-adjust your
clothing comes from wearing garments that do not fit your body shape.
Discordant lines between the body and clothing can cause one to emotionally
feel self-conscious, uncomfortable and even judgmental or unloving toward
oneself.
| Your favorite clothes flatter you because they are right for your body type. It makes sense that round flowing bodies require softer flowing fabrics, and angled or straight bodies can handle crisp, stiff fabrics. When the shape of your clothing matches the shape of your body, your clothing will ride easy and naturally on your form. You don't waste time trying to fit a square pet into a round hole! |
|
Remember having a bad haircut? The lines were unflattering
because they were out of balance for you, and you felt it!
The same thing happens with clothing. We all know that some clothing
makes us feel better than others — like your favorite pair of
jeans. Repeatedly changing your clothes to "decide
what to wear" is actually a process of eliminating discordant lines
until you feel good. You are attempting to adjust clothing lines,
working to get the right feeling, often not knowing what causes
the difference. Now you can stop guessing and deliberately create the
feeling you want.
| As you focus on your body and clothing lines, you will see why these concepts make sense. Square body shapes often have a dilemma finding wedding dresses — most wedding dresses are made for tiny little waists. Circle types have a hard time finding casual clothes because easy-to-wear, unfitted or loose styles are for square/rectangle bodies. Another problem is finding standard patterns for oval and circle bodies; they are not readily available because of the detailed fitting that is necessary. Triangle bodies have a body shape that can wear everybody's lines, and they wonder, "What's the big deal?" The rest of us know what the big deal is! With this information we begin to feel really good about our bodies and the clothes we wear. |  |
Just as there are four basic color schemes in nature, there are also four basic shapes — the triangle, the circle, the square and the oval. In art there is a co-esthetic relationship between color and line. The same principles apply equally to color and line.
Shapes are associated with season, color, form and gender: The square is clearly masculine with straight grounded lines, the circle is feminine with curved circular lines, the triangle and oval are androgynous mixdtures — the triangle has straight lines with feminine angled flair, and the oval has a feminine curved line with an upright masculine stance.
It is easier to see shapes in clothing than to learn complicated measuring systems — art students learn proportion by looking at shapes as well as the shapes between lines. Compare the four shapes on the following exaggerated dress caricatures:
- Oval shapes give a classic look
- Round or circular shapes give a youthful, ultra feminine look
- Square shapes give a tailored, casual look
- Angled triangular shapes give a flared, exaggerated look
|
 Circle shapes |
 Square shapes |
 Triangle shapes |
There are two kinds of lines for your body — the "outside" shape and the "inside" detail lines. Your clothing silhouette line is the outline your clothing makes after you are dressed. You may be a combination body type, but to intelligently modify your lines, you need to understand the four basic shapes first. (Clothing detail lines are covered in the next section).
 Dress Silhouette (outside lines) |
 Dress Details (inside lines) |
 Dress |
All the information we have given you so far has been leading up to this point. The concept we now present, impacts your feeling of well being more than any other aspect relating to your appearance. The torso area (your body minus arms and legs) dictates what lines fit your body shape. We are not concerned about large or small bones, or conventional body measurements. All we care about is how clothes are going to fit the middle of your body. And this is important because this area affects 80% of all clothing choices and problems therein. Circles and squares don’t match! The shape of this area determines the type of belts, waistbands and straight or fitted clothing lines. Below, note the 4 basic torso shapes and the lines they require. The black bathing suits highlight how different the body areas really are.
 |
 |
 |
 |
A WORD ABOUT FITTING....the importance of the following details can not be over emphasized!
-
For all body types, be sure your sleeves are not too long; if women cover the complete curve of the wrist they will appear matronly.
-
Shoulder seams or pads have to be carefully placed, right at the joint where the arm attaches, to avoid broad football-shoulders on women or “Winnie-the-Pooh” looks on men.
-
Circle and oval body shapes have to be extremely careful about their sleeves ¾ they must be a set-in sleeve (no raglan or drop-shoulder seams) which will balance sloping shoulders.
-
Oval and circle bodies also have to avoid pleats in pants, because fuller stomach curves tend to cause pleats to lay open; whereas on square/rectangle bodies who have flatter stomachs, pleats can hang more straight and flat.
-
It is best not to wear thick or overly textured fabrics if you are a circle or oval body shape.
-
Often there are clients who have all their colors right, but the lines are completely wrong and they don’t feel good about their clothes. The whole closet can be upgraded merely by changing the lines:
Such as laying sweaters out on the bed and cutting the sleeves out and re-setting them in closer at the pivot of the shoulder;
As well cutting away some of the bulk and slimming up the sides;
Shorten skirts so the leg shows a womanly curve;
Take out pleats;
Cut down high necklines;
Slenderize lapels;
Change buttons to add contrast or repeat hair color;
Add "hair-color repeat" to embroidery;
And re-dye wrong color shoes.
-
Again, if something doesn't feel right, it isn't! Just keep changing things until you connect to your clothing and something inside says, “Yes, that feels better!”
The silhouette line, the outline shape of your clothing, makes all the difference in feeling attractive and appealing in your clothes. This applies to any stage of weight gain or loss — the outside line for your body type always remains constant. A woman needs to express curves somewhere: either the neck, breasts, waist, legs, ankles or wrists. Be creative; set-in sleeves add to femininity, small oval shoulder pads can add a curve, sleeves short enough to show wrists add curves, body stockings cover yet show leg or body curves, tight tops under over-lays suggest there are curves underneath. Each body type has special areas that can be enhanced and attractive:
-
The Oval Body — Femininity is best displayed through the waist, breasts and shoulders
-
The Circle Body — Femininity is best displayed through the waist, breasts, wrists and ankles
-
The Square or Rectangle Body — Femininity is best displayed through the legs, arms and trim thighs
-
The Triangular Body — Femininity is best displayed through the small waist for Type 1; and for Type 2 "the Lioness", through the breast and trim thighs
|
IMPORTANT: For all body types. If you wear a large silhouette on top (like a large sweater or T-shirt), then you need to wear a tight silhouette line on the bottom (like leggings or tight jeans). If you wear a large bottom (baggy pants or full skirt), then you need to wear a small silhouette line on the top (a fitted top such as a body-hugging sweater or a leotard)). This prevents an unflattering boxlike silhouette because it adds curves, either from the waist and breasts, or from the ankle and leg curves. Otherwise, if both the top and the bottom are big, there are no feminine curves to the silhouette. |
 |
Everyone can wear the classic basic oval lines albeit modified for a good fit. This is because of the non-extreme properties of medium classic lines. Oval bodies shapes must stay within the oval clothing lines because other lines don't fit or flatter their shapes. However, the circle, square and triangle can wear modified oval lines as well as their own clothing lines. The following oval lines are applicable to all body shapes:
set-in
sleeves jewel necklines mock turtlenecks V-necklines |
hidden pockets hidden buttons medium size lapels classic blazers |
underarm side-panel
gore long sleeves A-line skirts classic medium heel pumps |
The following descriptions are the basic lines for each body type. The lines are first illustrated and summarized so that you can see which lines naturally correspond to each body shape; a discussion follows so that you can learn more details and the reasoning behind these proven concepts. With this knowledge you can consciously modify any line to make it appear more classic, feminine, casual or even more exaggerated and costumey.
|
Oval
Body Basic Line
This body shape needs a skimming fitted look. It can be body-hugging
but not clinging or skimpy. It is a fact that oval body types have a
hard time finding this silhouette line in both ready to wear and patterns
for sewing, but it is vital to creatively adapt an oval slimming outside
line wherever possible. Keep sides fitted; can have fullness in the
middle of the body, front and back, but no blouson on the sides; important
to keep fullness off sides for a sleek classic look. The natural slope
of the oval shoulder line is an asset, and necklines that expose the
shoulders are especially good. Use fabrics and stitching of the finest
quality because these details are noticeable in simple lines. Avoid
stiff, crisp materials —
fabrics should be soft enough to flow over oval curves.
Sleeves
Set-in fitted sleeves are a must because they give definition to the
shoulder angle. Long sleeves are best —
even thin-fabric long sleeves in the summertime. Make sure that long
sleeves do not completely cover wrists so that the curve of the wrist
is shown. Can wear a small oval shoulder pad which suggests a puff,
but absolutely no large shoulder pads unless you are looking for a “costume”
look. No dolman or raglan sleeves because they exaggerate the slope
of the shoulders. Cap or short sleeves cut the arm wrong, however longer
short sleeves to the elbow are fine. Sleeveless styles are the worst;
actually, strapless dresses which do not draw attention to the arms
are more flattering than sleeveless dresses which give an unflattering
line. A great sleeve silhouette is a narrow long sleeve with five button
closures, or a long Bishop sleeve that is gathered at the wristband
(this provides a long oval curve), even a medium puff sleeve hitting
above the elbow gives a nice contrast to the waistline.
Blouses,
Tops and Dresses
The idea is to reveal the waist, even though the oval waist is not extremely
small, it appears to be small because of the oval curves above and below
it. Slim-fitted blouses that fall gently over the waist-band are especially
good on oval body types. Diagonal French bodice side and center darts
give a nice slim bodice fit. Leotard looks are necessary even though
they tend to be too skimpy, however they do provide a slim top for baggy
pant looks; the advantage is that leotards stay tucked in and smooth
and do not blouson out; the disadvantage is that they can be too tight
unless you are trim yourself. Avoid blouses with front plackets, top-stitching,
front buttons or broad set-in yokes. Keep necklines simple; use oval,
jewel or plain mock-turtlenecks to achieve classic looks. Wear fine-ribbed
body-slinking sweaters with simple lines. No drop-shoulder cardigan
sweaters because they produce awkward lines on oval bodies. Graceful
simple oval ruffle effects add feminine lines. One piece dresses are
classic and simple. Avoid two-piece busy lines and overlays such as
sweaters over blouses that add bulk and take away from a slim line.
Body-fitting vests that flow over the oval curve gracefully is one overlay
clothing article that can work; another exception would be sheer overtops
that reveal a slim body line underneath. No not wear heavy fabrics that
add bulk.
Skirts
and Pants
No darts are best, but can have simple sewn-down contour darts. Avoid
pleats and gathers that add fullness (unless fabric is silk or soft
enough for pleats to fall sleekly down over the oval body form). The
suggested 2” waist-band fits securely into the curve of the oval waist.
Medium and long A-line skirts and dresses are best because they extend
the hip-line and cover hip curve; however, avoid bias cut A-lines that
tend to hug in-and-out curves and thigh bumps. Medium length straight
skirts are good — long
straight skirts make the silhouette too straight. Shorter, above-the-knee
straight skirts are good with 3/4 length A-line coat jackets. Skirts,
dresses and pants with drop-oval waist-lines fit the oval figure. Levi’s
with low-slung waists, resting on the hipbone, are better than high
waist styles; in pants, a high waist accentuates the stomach and hips
too much. No cuffs or bulky pockets on slacks; better to keep the uncluttered
simple classic look. Pant legs are best slightly tapered to about 8"
across, or the simple A-line medium flare is all right. No extreme tapered
legs or straight pant legs that actually look baggy on an oval body
type. A soft A-line pant leg works here as well. Be sure pants are not
"high-water" because it would break up the long flowing line.
Shorts are better if they are the high-cut sports style, and bathing
suits are best in one piece with high cut legs; it is better to expose
the complete thigh rather than have a lower line that cuts the thigh
area in two, drawing unflattering attention to the indent between hipbone
and leg.
Jackets
and Coats
Always form fitting jackets. Avoid
straight box styles because they cover the curve of the oval waist.
Avoid peplums because they exaggerate the oval hip curves. Contoured
underarm gore panels are good because they help give a fitted look —
this underarm gore is good for every body type. IMPORTANT: Jacket length
for the oval body comes down to, and covers, the natural indent between
the hip bone and the leg; the jacket hemline hits the convex curve at
this point and is a most flattering sleek look for the oval figure.
Longer 3/4 A-line jackets are excellent if worn with a short skirt.
Avoid short-waisted Princess styles because the Princess gore line allows
too much fullness in the breast area and causes a short-waisted "little
girl" look on oval body shapes. A gore line running from the shoulder
straight down over the breast point is all right. This is the best category
for fitted A-line coats and longer coachman length sophisticated coats.
Keep waistlines at the waist in jackets and coats.
Belts
and Waistbands
The 2” belt and band width is most important to keep a graceful curve;
a 1” belt pinches in and causes the tummy to push out. 3” stiff belts
cover-up the oval curve and are uncomfortable because the belt presses
against the oval rib cage and the prominent hipbone —
however, wide belts that are flexible
and soft enough to mold into the waistline are the best. Contoured belts
are stiff but can work if they sit down on the hips and create an oval
drop waist line.
Accessories
Simple, genuine, singular and of fine quality are important in this
category. Avoid plastic or cheap materials. You will find that shoulder
straps on purses and bags are not compatible with this body type because
of the slope of the shoulders —
the purse strap tends to slide off
this type shoulder and becomes uncomfortable. Medium size purses with
elongated oval shapes are best. Simple, genuine, singular and of fine
quality is most important in jewelry pieces and belt buckles.
Shoes
Classic pumps with medium heels
are a must for this category. Sandals are more classic with closed-in
toe and simple strap around the heel. Boots should be simple with medium
heels and are best if the line is curved in with slimmer ankle lines
— straight-leg
boots cover up the curve of the ankle and disturb the graceful curve
of the oval line.
|
Circle
Body Basic Line
This body shape needs a fitted top with an eased bottom outside line,
or slight shirring at the waist. Whether you weigh 100 pounds or two-hundred
pounds, this is the most flattering outside line. The idea is to create
a small bodice look by using higher waistlines and set-in sleeves (this
line will not look little girlish on a circle body type). Circle shoulders
are sloped and accept pretty flowing necklines and off-shoulder lines.
The bodice can be eased above the waist- band or belt. Lightly shirred
to softly gathered waistlines fit the round curves of the circle body.
Use fabrics that are soft enough to flow over the Reubenesque round
body shape; avoid stiff, hard or bulky thick materials.
Sleeves
Set-in sleeves properly fitted at the top pivot bone of the arm are
very important in this category because this line keeps the bodice looking
small. An eased-in puff at the top of the sleeve is excellent in this
category. Avoid baggy or large sleeves such as raglan, drop shoulder
or dolman sleeve lines which give an extreme “Winnie-the-Pooh” sloping
shoulder look. Bishop, cupped cap-sleeves, short sleeves, puff sleeves
and slim long sleeves are all good. Three-quarter slim-fitting sleeves
are flattering because they don’t cover so much of the arm which gives
a dainty feeling. Big shoulder pads do not flatter the circle body,
however a small oval pad or puffed look gives balance. Sleeve lines
can be more tapered to accentuate circle small wrists. Thin circle body
types can wear moderate Bishop puff sleeves, but for heavier types,
puff sleeves down by the hip line are too much.
Blouses,
Tops and Dresses
Fitted blouses that create small
bodice effects are best. Leotard tucked- in blouse looks are good for
thinner circle body types. Princess-line gores with shorter waists are
natural for the circle body. Avoid heavy blouson silhouettes and wide
set-in yokes — we
are trying to emphasize a smaller feminine look rather than a muscular
broad look. Keep lines simple similar to oval category, but can have
more ruffles and detail lines, but no complicated boxy flaps that would
detract from a smoother silhouette. The circle
body type wears dresses better than pants. Soft, slightly fitted
sweaters with slightly puffed sleeves are excellent. Keep sweater lengths
on the short side, about 2” below the waistline (this shorter type sweater
looks little girlish on an oval body type, but looks right at home on
the circle body).
Skirts
and Pants
No bulky
pleats at waistline, rather use slight shirring or gathers. Soft A-line
skirts and slight dirndl skirts are good. Elastic gathered or drawstring
pants are natural for this category. Tapered legs on pants accentuate
the slim ankle but has to be done carefully because they will emphasize
larger hips of a Reubenesque voluptuous body shape. For thinner types
a soft A-line flair to the pant leg works, but keep away from boxy,
cuffed silhouettes. A soft high-waisted pant line gives a flattering
empire silhouette —
the idea is to create spaces that keep bodice areas small. Circle bodies
generally prefer skirts to shorts, but the short sport-style is best.
A shirred, camisole- type bathing suit top with slightly shirred skirt
is flattering. Avoid culottes and 2-piece styles that make the top and
bottom proportions equal —
the circle silhouette lines highlight
a small bodice which honor the balance of Golden Mean proportions (1:3
or 2:3 ratios). Also avoid stirrup pants that pull straight down and
cover the important curve of the circle leg; tights are better.
Jackets
and Coats
Smaller, shorter fitted jackets 1” to 2” below the waistline. Circle
body types prefer dresses and jackets rather than pants. Short straight
skirts are fine under longer fitted, slightly A-line jackets. This is
the natural category for Princess gores in coat bodices which flow into
classic A-line silhouettes. Contoured underarm gore panels help give
a fitted look. Empire waistlines are excellent (gives a small bodice
effect). Princess style fitted coats and jackets —
be sure set-in sleeves fit properly and are set right at top of pivot
bone of shoulder. Avoid peplums, straight, boxy or double-breasted coats
and jackets. See * below for heavy circle body type variations.
Belts
and Waistbands
Belts and waistbands are 1” to 1½”; wider belts bump up against the
round rib cage and curved hip bone. All measurements mentioned are to
be considered proportionately —
a larger person can, of course, wear
a larger belt than a smaller person. Circle bodies do have small waistlines,
but if they gain weight their waist gets covered over. (Think of one
orange on top of another. As a person gains weight around the hips and
rib cage it’s as though the oranges flatten and squish down and cover
up the formally small waistline.) Heavier circle types often make the
mistake of thinking they are a square body and start wearing over-size
drop shoulder T-shirts which takes away any indication that a waist
ever existed using lines that define a small bodice will retain feminine
look.
Accessories
Lacy soft effects in jewelry and scarves. This is the natural home for
pearls, especially variegated, which offer a monochromatic blended feeling.
Shoes
This is the natural home of the T-strap shoe because it contours to
the round foot. Because the circle foot vamp is shorter, the T-strap
helps hold the high heel shoe in place. A close-toe sling pump is also
recommended.
*Heavier
Circle Body Types
Keep fabrics soft but with enough
body to flow easily over the shape. Sleeves and pant legs need to be
more slim and classic. A major mistake is to wear baggy looks, especially
oversized T-shirts with drop shoulders
— regardless of weight, a circle body must create a small bodice
look. This is achieved by making sure that the shoulder seams come in
closer to the neck which forms a smaller bodice line. Re-set sleeves,
move shoulder pads and make sure skirts are not too draggy and long.
As soon as this is demonstrated on a circle person, they never settle
for the large box look again. Special Note:
Added weight exaggerates circle body lines, and to regain line-balance,
heavier types may need to move toward and incorporate some straighter
square lines.
|
Square
Body Basic Line
While this body shape may have somewhat of a waist
indent, the rib cage is actually more square and adapts beautifully
to straighter up and down silhouette lines which ride naturally on this
form. Feminine points of interest are more apparent at the wrists, arms,
slim thighs and legs. Because these lines are straighter, apply the
concept of "big top with slim bottom, or slimmer top with bigger
bottom" to achieve feminine looks. Fabrics can be from medium soft
flowing materials to fabrics that are more firm and textured. The thin
square (rectangle) types look very sensual even in straighter styles
because straight clothing glides over the body without hitting bumps.
See* below for heavy square body type variations.
Sleeves
Set in sleeves are again good, however
in this category the raglan or drop shoulder lines can be added. Since
the shoulder line is already square, do not use large shoulder pads
(soft contoured shoulder pads can give ever so slight lift to the shoulder
creating a set-in sleeve look. If the shoulders are narrow to medium,
then the drop shoulder seams are fine; if the shoulders are broader,
then it makes sense to cut the line with set-in sleeves or raglan sleeve
lines. All sleeve lengths are good including sleeveless, cap sleeves,
short sleeves, elbow length, 3/4 push-up sleeves and long sleeves. Avoid
puff sleeves or peasant looks unless you are a thinner rectangle.
Blouses,
Tops and Dresses
This is the natural home
of the blouson silhouette line because it blouses out covering the waist
and then falls on slim hips which is very flattering. The tank top,
shirt style blouse and shirtwaist-dress are also most at home in this
category. Straight line shifts, straight skirts, jumpers and dresses
of any length from very short to long, are perfect. Heavier short types
wear two piece combinations better. Oversize T shirts with tighter or
shorter skirt lines work well. Necklines are a focus point and this
body type can handle complicated effects such as cowl, polo shirt collars,
collar stands, turtlenecks, plackets, flaps, epaulets, pleats and yokes.
This is the natural category for overlays of clothing because busy,
complicated, comfortable lines do not add so much bulk to a straighter
body type —
round and oval types
are “bumpier” and do not appreciate added padding. Most sweaters are
for squared-off bodies. The cardigan sweater is “classic” for this category
because of its soft blouson, placket and sleeves pushed up or down.
Skirts
and Pants
Because of this straighter body shape,
box pleats add dimension and lay straight on trim hips —
there are no round bulges that open
unsightly pleats. Avoid pleats that are set at an angle (this is not
an angled body). Two pleats on each side of the pant is the usual square
body pant line. Gathered elastic waists are not as flattering, but sometimes
softer gathers flatten down and adapt a flat-pleated look. The classic
slightly tapered pant leg is good, but this category can also wear straight
legs that are more boxy, as well as cuffs and fuller pockets. This body
type also handles overalls, sweats, tights and Levi jean pants because
of their slimmer hips and less defined waist. Shorts are a favorite
here because of trim slim hips. Walking pants and pants of any length.
Bathing suits can be two piece, tank top or blouson styles with short
boy-pant legs.
Jackets
and Coats
Straighter box lines
on jackets and coats. Can also have underarm gore panels but less contoured
or fitted than for oval bodies. Straighter up and down coats such as
trench coats, pea coats, safari, dusters, long walking coats, or 7/8
jackets. Jean jackets, bomber or Eisenhower type jackets that have a
shorter line and blouson with a wide bottom band work well. Yokes, cuffs,
flaps and button-downs add more lines and details. Double breasted coats
and jackets are most at home in this category. Extra pockets, patch
pockets, plackets, belt carriers and hoods give extra outside line details.
Add ethnic looks, blankets, ponchos and shawls. Avoid very short jackets
and boleros that expose the waist area.
Belts
and Waistbands
Belt widths are from 1” to 2½”. In this
category, belts are primarily worn as part of outfits rather than spotlighted
as ornamental to show off the waist. Belts are often inset or incorporated
into the garment with belt carriers, blouson tops, in overalls or jumpsuits.
Suspenders are definitely at home in this category.
Accessories
Shoulder
straps on purses and bags are good in this category because straps can
naturally rest on square shoulders without falling off. Can wear more
jewelry (multiple strands), scarves, shawls, overlays and complex necklines.
In a word, more accessories than the other categories.
Shoes
Casual shoes such as Birkenstocks, sandals, moccasins,
tennis shoes and boots are natural for squared feet and bodies. Two-tone
spectator shoes. Special mention is a classic pump with a cut-out toe
which communicates the “casual” feeling of this category. Also, leggings,
textured hose and knee socks.
*Heavier
Squared Body Types
Fabrics must be softer and less bulky —
you want the fabric to flow easily over the body as you move. Sleeves
and pant legs need to be more slim and classic to avoid over-baggy looks.
Push up your jacket sleeves for a smaller bodice look. Straight shift
one-piece dresses are not good; rather use two, three piece combinations.
Wear tank tops and camisoles under jackets to give a suggestion of curves
underneath. No drop shoulders or cap sleeves, rather use set-in sleeves,
raglan or diagonal cap sleeves to create a more narrow slim line. Be
impeccable about making sure your clothing fits your body properly.
Avoid skimpy, tight-fitting clothing.
*Thin
Rectangle Types
Many models are tall rectangles. The
fact that they are so trim without curves and bulging spots enables
them to look especially attractive in sleek straight lines. However,
they can also add more graceful classic oval lines and even circle lines
for feminine balance.
|
Triangle
Body Basic Lines
This body shape has more
latitude and has more flexibility and possible variations than the other
three body types. The actual triangle basic silhouette line angles in
some- where below the bust line or angles out somewhere below the bust
line. Type 1: Because this body form has
a triangular rib cage that angles in at the waist, the look is always
slightly sexy even in business clothes. Professional models most commonly
have triangle type 1 bodies which have sleek lines that act as a basic
frame for all clothing lines in addition to their own more dramatic
styles. Even though their body lines are more straight, they still go
in and out similar to the oval body, therefore they easily wear oval
lines as well. Type 2: This "Lioness"
body form is more of an inverted
triangle which adds to the dramatic flair in dress. Because of their
trim thighs they are good in pants, and more attention to styles that
angle in below the bust line.
Sleeves
Again, this shape can
wear a great variety of sleeve lines beginning with classic set-in sleeves.
This is the natural category for shoulder pads because the angles the
pads produce are compatible with angled body lines. This is the best
category for wearing more variety in sleeves: dolman, raglan, batwings,
leg-of-mutton, kimono, lantern, bishop, triangle flared, cap, bell,
halters, sleeveless, strapless, with added ornamentation such as flounces,
trims, flanges, tucks, tassels and beading.
Blouses,
Tops and Dresses
Blouses that emphasize
the waistline are especially good in category: leotard, bustier, halter,
peasant, flared, under bust A-line, peplum, bell, trapeze, cropped tie-fronts,
bolero, boat necklines, camisole and corset styles. Extreme styles with
novelty yokes, gores, flanges, cutouts, tucks, unusual ruffles and darts
— especially
diagonally angled darts. Necklines offer opportunity for many creative
effects and this body type is not limited (except possibly by neck size
or face shape). Dresses with peplums are most comfortable in this category.
Skirts
and Pants
Body Type 1
is angled straight out to thighs —
diagonal darts and pleats in pants and skirts repeat this line.
Body type 2 is straighter down the hips
and fuller through the chest and shoulders, therefore bigger tops with
slim pant and skirts follow this vertical angled body shape. The triangular
body takes inset yokes, set in waistbands and pants that fit without
waistbands. Again, there are a great variety of styles that can work
in this category. Besides the classical styles there are stretch pants,
Capri, bell bottom, harem, jodhpur, palazzo and wrap pants. Skirts can
be anywhere from straight lines and A-lines, to all the extreme lines.
Full circular skirts and skirts with high slits and kick pleats are
typically triangular. Tulip, trumpet and diagonal draped skirts and
dresses. Jumpsuits are particularly good for this body type. In addition
to more classic styles, the triangle body handles extreme bathing suit
lines such as thong styles, French cut legs and deep V necklines.
Jackets
and Coats
Revved up classic styles
and all extremes fit in this category. The contrast from very long coat
styles to short jackets above the waist including boleros and vests.
Cocoon, trapeze, fitted cut-away styles, gored, inset yokes and novelty
collars and cuffs. Extended shoulders and shoulder pads. Angled line
can come in anywhere below the bust line or angle out into A-lines and
extreme flared styles with exaggerated sleeves.
Belts
and Waistlines
This body shape can wear
all belts plus wider 3” belts because there are no round rib cages or
prominent hip bones to bump against. Contour belts lay nicely on Type
1 shapes. Ornamental belts of every variety are natural for this
body type.
Accessories
All the above accessories
plus beading, gemstones, feathers and plastic. Shoulder straps rest
well on this straight shoulder type. Hats are best worn by triangle
heads because of the angled contours of the triangular head type that
can hold hats on.
Shoes
Thongs were made for
triangular feet. Triangle shaped wedge heels belong with this group
as well as pumps with angled sides or a vamp that has a separated front
and back. Boots with decorations and trendy effects are good here. Leggings
and all decorative hose.
Classic
Fitted Coat
Best for oval body. Coat has a waistline right at the waist with classic
A-line gores. A triangle can also wear this coat. A rectangle body would
modify the fitted waist to fit. Overwhelms a circle body.
Classic
Princess Coat
Best for circle shape. Looks little girlish on oval body. A triangle
body could wear it. A square body cannot take this much fitting.
Classic Straight Coat
Best for square body. It is the worst style for oval and circle body
types because drop shoulders give a broad muscle look. The triangle
can wear this style.
Extreme
Angled Coat
Example of extreme angled line. Triangle Type
1 wear nearly all styles. Oval bodies are better in fitted coats,
even though they can fit into this coat.
Classic
Oval Pant Line
This is the only pant that really looks good on the oval body. No darts.
One small sewn dart is good. The 2" band is very comfortable and
feels secure and easy to wear. Classic pant legs are slightly tapered
to avoid a baggy look. Triangle and rectangle body types can wear this
classic pant.
Circle
Body Pant Line
Light shirring at the waistline eases gently over
the curve of the round body frame. The 1"-1 1/2" wide band
fits the waist. A rectangle or square could wear this line because they
are straighter and the shirring can substitute for full pleats. Not
good for ovals. Circles wear high-waisted styles as well (small bodice).
Basic
Pleated Pant Line
Classic double pleats are good for rectangle and
square bodies. Fullness gives illusion of smaller waist. Straight or
slim thighs allow pants to fall straight and relaxed. This pant is not
good for ovals because they need pant line to be more firm across the
middle. Pants are natural for square bodies.
No
Band and Variety Pants
Any variety of styles with or without bands fit
the triangle body. Contour inset yokes particularly are compatible with
this body line. High or low waist styles are included. These lines cannot
be worn by square body types for obvious mis-match reasons.
RETURN TO TOP or continue to CLOTHING DETAIL LINES
Copyright © 1985 By Irenee Riter All Rights Reserved