CLOTHING "INSIDE" DETAIL LINES

In this section you will test to see what size details you wear on the "inside" lines of your clothing (small, medium, large or extra large). You will see the features on your face as a design which dictates the size and width of your lapels, belts, cuffs, pleats, traps, bands, buttons, buckles, watches, bracelets, earrings, eye glasses, purses and accessories.

Here are tools to help you use your Homebase colors and lines for balance, and then guide you to adapt other colors and lines for variety and fresh looks.

Click here for Keysize Tester using 4 sizes of bows - small, medium, large and extra large.

" One day I was trying on a satin blouse to wear under a suit. The blouse had ties attached to the neck for a bow. So, I tied a nice big bow and and I tried to adjust it, I knew something was not quite right. Suddenly it occurred to me to pull the ends and make the bow smaller. As I gradually changed the size of the bow, my features came into focus and I looked balanced. A whole new dimension of color work opened up. Checking out detail lines on clothing proved that the size and position of a person's features preset what size bow (and all other "inside" clothing lines) was best. I designed a tester based on "the bow" experience and colorists all over the country used it to determine this aspect of personal dress. Features are literally our natural 'inside' lines and become the standard key-size for all that we wear."                                                                                     —   Irenee

Few people realize the impact that face features have on a person's overall appearance. The size, shape, spacing and positioning of a person's eyebrows, eyes, nose, mouth and chin form a design right on the face. Facial features have the same impact that a design you may be wearing has — lines are lines, whether they are expressed in the form of top-stitching and buttons, or in the curves and shapes of features!

Features which are widely spaced out over the entire face, relate differently to lines of clothing than do tiny-grouped features in a little pattern in the middle of the face. A large bow would be in better balance with the illustrated face on the left, than with the small spaced featured face on the right.

Lines are energy and definitely communicate feelings which are felt both objectively (what you see) and subjectively (what you feel). A detailed study of lines will give you the foundation to compare and see what lines make up your features.

A vertical line gives a feeling of balance, symmetry, evenness and centeredness. A horizontal line gives a feeling of peace, rest, stillness and of being set or level. A line tilted on an angle gives a feeling of excitement, tension, asymmetry, off-centeredness, movement and action.

All figures are made from straight lines and curved lines and always express gender:

A straight line is masculine   (Yang)

A circle is feminine    (Yin)

NOTICE: Balancing the male and female energies makes the perfect  "10"

Lines that turn up feel "up-lifting", youthful, optimistic, open, accepting and non-critical. (feminine) Lines that turn down are "down-feeling", more reserved, serious and discerning. (masculine) Thin things are sensitive, more fragile and transparent. (feminine) Thick things are more durable, insulated and opaque. (masculine) Little things minimize. (feminine)   BIG THINGS EXAGGERATE (masculine)

Seeing the impact face features have on clothing lines led to the study of lines and shapes of features. Once again they aligned to the 4 archetype energies of the seasons. The same energies express through our features just as these energies express everywhere — they project definite feelings and indicate corresponding expressions and functions.

WINTER FEATURE LINES (oval)

Any feature that is balanced - classic - symmetrical - even - sophisticated -
has medium balance - good proportion

SUMMER FEATURE LINES (circle)

Any feature that is feminine - small - petite - gentle - fine - round - curly -
cute - soft - small spaces - sweet - kind - shapely - curves - circles

AUTUMN FEATURE LINES (square)

Any feature that is masculine - straight - squared - plain - asymmetric -
flat - indistinct - large spaces

SPRING FEATURE LINES (triangle)

Any feature that is exaggerated - animated - accented - outlined - bold -
unique - any feature which could be "cartooned" to show individuality

 OVAL FEATURE LINES

Any feature that is balanced, even, classic, medium size, and symmetrical fall into this category.

1. Oval shaped face; looked at as having the "norm"; wears simple hairstyle because there are no unusual lines to balance or compensate for. 2. Classic eyebrow has a natural arch and falls exactly like the brow line explained later in this chapter under "eyebrow guidelines". 3. Full bodied medium textured hair; medium length hairstyles are good; simple severe hairstyles that are free of extra lines; classic. 4. Classic well-shaped eyes; the width of one eye equals the din stance between the eyes. 5. Eyes are even-set; lined up straight and even across. 6. Classic nose; easy straight lines; medium in shape and size.

7. Classic lips' medium in size and shape; rather on the feminine side but nicely formed even on a male. 8. Oval hair line and slight Widow's peak automatically dividing the hair into even balance; peak at nape of neck. 9. Suggestion of cleft in chin suggesting even balance. 10. High classic cheekbones, the look that models try to achieve; gives a refined chiseled look. 11. The overall features are evenly shaped and well balanced; they are in good proportion to each other and to the whole face. 12. Stature balanced and well-proportioned.

 CIRCLE FEATURE LINES

Any feature that is round, softened, curved, fine or small falls into this category.

1. Round shaped face; full filled out face; a "cherub" look. 2. Very thin eyebrows; often curved high and round giving a discriminating"highbrow" look; delicate, fine eyebrows. 3. Naturally curly hair; wavy hair; very fine "baby hair' thin head of hair; any curly hairstyle has feminine lines. 4. Small, tiny eyes; because the eyes are small the iris fill up the space and very little of the white shows; a "kind" quality or look o the eyes. 5. Round eyes; a wide-eyed "innocent" look; opposite from a closed squinty eye. 6. Round nose; "pug" nose; the baby nose or childlike youthful nose, the opposite of a sharp pointed-down nose.

7. Round feminine peaks on the lips; no angles; a "rosebud" mouth; small lips compared to the rest of the face. 8. Round hairline making the forehead appear more round; a round full-bellied forehead; the round forehead of a baby. 9. Dimples; gives the look of childlike charm; this is a very feminine feature adding circles to features. 10. Round full cheeks giving a willing cooperative feeling. 11. Overall features are fine, curved, grouped in smaller space; small space between the nose and top lip – closes in space for more petite look. 12. Stature small- boned; small height; curvy round figure.

 SQUARE FEATURE LINES

Any feature that is straight, plain, square-angled or somewhat asymmetrical falls into this category.

1. Square shaped face; gives strength, feeling of authority; square space aids in giving the voice resonance. 2. Straight eyebrows; especially low-set eyebrows; gives friendly appearance, opposite from a "highbrow". 3. Straight hair; medium texture hair; long straight hair; short straight hair is a masculine line. 4. Almond shaped eyes; gives a straight feeling, not round and open; autumn leaf shape. 5. Down-slanted eyes; less lid showing; masculine critical analytical look to the eye 6. Plain firm nose; squarish "roman" nose; flat planes; strong appearing; may be large but not extra large.

7. Straight across lip line; long rather than round; angled peaks on lips; undefined lip line; gives a concise masculine feeling. 8. Square hairline; flat square forehead; gives a strong constructive forthright feel. 9. Square jaw line; larger area gives masculine authority to voice and manner in communicating. 10. Flat cheekbones; square flat planes to the face give a blunt look; from the side view cheeks appear straight, flat. 11. Overall features are plain; undefined; spread out, spaced apart; long upper lip; long space between nose and top of lip; a "no makeup" look. 12. Stature is square and well-set.

 TRIANGLE FEATURE LINES

Any feature that is accentuated, distinctive, exaggerated or unique would fall into this category.

1. Triangular or diamond shaped face; especially wide at the top with pointed chin. 2. Bushy eyebrows; grows out like a ledge; very coarse eyebrow hair; eyebrows with a dramatic arched flair. 3. Very thick "man" of hair; extremely coarse hair; off-angled, extreme long or extreme short hair; faddish or trendy hairstyles. 4. Very large eyes; bold or outstanding eyes; unusual in animated fashion. 5. Cat eyes; eyes that slant upward; noticeable because of their unusual angle. 6. Distinctive nose; unique in character and form; chiseled effect; a nose just "asking" to be cartooned.

7. Large lips; full; generous; well defined; natural outline accent around lip edge; large accent dip on upper lip running perpendicular to nose; extreme peaks on lips. 8. An exaggerated, definite, well-defined Widow's peak. 9. Very large cleft in chin; an over exaggerated dimple. 10. Wide-angled cheekbones; cheeks angled in giving a sharp look rather than full one. 11. Overall features appear bold, animated or have a cartoon-like quality; features stand out in some way. 12. Stature has angled or unusual lines.

Add up how many of your features are oval_________?
                                                              circle ________ ?
                                                              square ________?
                                                              triangle ________ ?

Nature demonstrates her wisdom by giving our faces the exact balance we need — an unique arrangement of different proportions of balanced features (Winter), beautiful features (Summer), strong features (Autumn) or distinctive features (Spring).

A Touch of “Beauty” for Each Man

A man may have a very feminine mouth which gives him a touch of beauty; or a man may have wavy or curly hair adding beauty in a graceful soft expression; or a man may have beautiful energy apparent in light blue eyes and delicate Summer coloring which balances a strong large masculine stature.

A Touch of “Strength” for Each Woman

A woman may have a strong masculine mouth giving her face just the strength it needs; and a woman who has quite a few masculine straight features will naturally be balanced with other feminine characteristics — either curly hair, a circle body, blue eyes or perhaps soft Summer coloring.

Just as a complete year has all four season energies, people have been created with all four energies expressed in perfect balance though their hair, skin, eyes and body.

 

Keysize impacts every facet of dress — lines, patterns and colors. Again, sizes relate to the four energies of the seasons:

EXTRA LARGE KEYSIZE   Since Spring is exaggerated it relates to extra large animated features and stature as well as extra large animated patterns. It even expresses in bright "extra large" colors. If you have extra-large energy expressing through one of these avenues, you can add a zing of extra large and it will connect you in a special way with your clothing.

  LARGE KEYSIZE   Since Autumn is masculine it relates to large strong, square features and stature and large strong natural patterns. It even expresses in muted earthy "large" colors. This energy allows you a bit more strength somewhere in your expression. You are the one that can wear that large sweater or large shoulder bag with panache.

MEDIUM KEYSIZE    Since Winter is balanced it relates to medium classic balanced feature and stature lines as well as balanced medium-set patterns. It even expresses as basic "medium" colors (like basic box of crayon colors). Just understanding this medium energy will give you the tool you need to wear things outside of your normal realm — colors can be modified and lines simplified to make medium, classic, reserved energy. The motto here is "not too large, not too small.....just right".

SMALL KEYSIZE   Since Summer is feminine it relates to small, soft, curved features and stature lines as well as soft blended patterns. It even expresses as delicate "small" colors. Touches of this energy are found around the edgings on collars, in fine chains, slim lines and delicate variegated blended designs. This keysize is used to give the finishing touch of refinement that is pleasing to look at.

Why is it important to know your Keysize? Because this will help determine the size of your inside detail lines on your clothing. It makes an enormous difference in your appearance to have the lapel on a jacket be in balance with your features. It also makes a difference if the ruffle around the neckline on a blouse is too large, and you may not know why but you feel uncomfortable and decide you don't like ruffles, period — so forever-more you miss the beauty of wearing the ruffle in your keysize that you would love. Just knowing enough to ask the question, "Is this the right size?" will open up many possibilities and considerations you may otherwise miss.

"Is this the right size?"
"Why do I feel uncomfortable?"
"How can I connect this color?"

A strong square chin communicates the same energy as a square neckline. The feminine lacy patterning in a blouse repeats the same energy as the patterning in curly hair. Lines are sub-jectively expressing all the time.

There are four major categories of clothing:

FORMAL     — Classic long lasting clothing, formal in the conventional standard, appropriate, proper, customary fashion.   (Winter Feeling) 

DRESSY     — Daytime and nighttime, lighter more refined materials, not as practical (a negligee is dressier than a flannel nightgown.  (Summer Feeling)                   

CASUAL     — Informal clothing, practical in warmth and comfort.  (Autumn Feeling)  

COSTUME  — Any dress that expresses fun, variety and drama, is trendy or out of the ordinary, temporary, changeable clothing.   (Spring Feeling)

The tools and raw material that create these different modes of dress are:

This information gives you discrimination. You may not literally design clothing, but you definitely understand what makes things go together and see differences. Only by contrast can you see differences. Lines can either connect you or disconnect you to your clothing. We are presenting all the four energy lines and colors in various modes so that you can compare and see where you fit into the scheme of things.

Now we are going to go one step further and present all the imagery, colors and lines in complete detail so that you have data to compare. These examples will give you an idea of how to relate the information to the articles of clothing listed. You will be able to identify everything and know what energy it expresses. Examples:

The energies of lines can be read like a book.

The items listed on the following pages will give you information to create any feeling or mood you may wish to portray.

1. IMAGERY — Nothing can be created until you picture it in your mind. To
                        stimulate your imagery of the four expressions, descriptive words
                        are presented to jog your imagination.

  2. COLOR MODIFICATIONS — You can take any color and modify its energy
                        by degrees and change its meaning. For example, an olive
                        green can be darkened into a formal color or lightened into
                        delicate feminine color.

  3. DETAIL LINES — Keeping your Keysize in mind, you can create any feeling
                        you desire in clothing, makeup, accessories or hairstyles. Use
                        "homebase" colors and lines as a foundation, and then adapt
                        other colors and lines for variety and fresh looks.

IMPORTANT FOR CREATORS — DON'T MISS THIS INFORMATION

Click on each Season Tool-Box for in-depth details on how to use colors and lines to deliberately create whatever effect you want to use.

Why? Because the brow line sets the contours and expressions of the whole face. Eyebrows often get distorted and out of alignment and need to be realigned. Your eyebrow line can make you look mad, unhappy, surprised, worried etc. — expressions you might not wish to intentionally project. Isn't it interesting how changing a line alters the feeling?

What appears to be a perpetual scowl can be erased by eliminating a few hairs in the eyebrows or allowing a few to grow in. I advise people to follow the Eyebrow Guidelines to redefine their natural eyebrow line. The eyebrows will look perfectly balanced, but uniquely yours, because the measurements will be in alignment with your features. (Don't underestimate how important these subtle instructions are....people are amazed at what a difference a few hairs can make.)

Unique features of these guidelines are:
(a) upper and under peaks are offset, and
(b) the bony ridge at the side of the eye, rather than
     the corner of the eye is used as a reference point.

EYEBROW CHART

See "Men Also" for Great Tip About Eyebrows For Men

People often wonder about necklines. How long should your necklace be? How far down on the bodice should a corsage be pinned? They know it makes a big difference, but have not had a guideline. Optimal balance is achieved when the eye has a reference point upon which to rest that keeps the head in balance with the upper body. Necklines are dictated by the length and width of one's face. To create the most harmonious neckline or necklace shape, simply repeat the shape of your face.

The length of your face determines the length (depth) of your neckline, shirt opening, collar, necklace, bow, pin, flower etc.

If you have bangs, or hair down on your forehead, measure by the amount of face that shows, and repeat that length in your neckline.

The width of your face determines the width of your necklines and collars. The eye likes this width repeated.

If your neckline is less than the length of your face, then widen the neckline for balance. This will make up the difference in volume.

Repeat the line of your jaw line for high necklaces or neckline treatments.

You may have heard of the Golden Mean. This is the rule that artists and architects use to achieve proportional balance in their creations. The rule says that a ratio of 2:3 or 3:5 is more interesting than something that is just divided in half. The eye is bored if something is equally divided in half; on the other hand it looses interest if the parts are so different that the relationship is lost. The idea is to keep the smaller part large enough to be interesting, and the largest part small enough to entice the eye to compare them. Again, the eye wants to connect things and at least try for a match to keep things exciting. Therefore, become aware that inside detail lines demand space areas.

The "big top, little bottom; little bottom, big top" rule is an easy guideline which can be applied here. Often you will feel awkward in a blouse and short skirt (50/50 ratio), whereas with slacks you achieve the Golden Mean (1/2 or 2/3 ratio). You think the comfort of slacks is making you feel better, but is is also the comfort of balanced proportions.

Boots or colored hose the color of the skirt serves to bring the "little top, big bottom" balance.

Longer line A-line coat/jackets over short skirts will give a "big top, little bottom" look that feels good.

For a classic, smooth, sophisticated look it is better to not break the line at all. One clean sleek statement is not made with square box shapes — and if the box shapes made of different colors it is even less sleek.

WINTER	SUMMER	AUTUMN	SPRING
A high, back-centered bun hairdo says, "I am regal and poised. I think I am beautiful enough on my own to allow this severe hairdo. It makes me feel queenly."	An upswing ponytail hairdo says, "I think I'm pretty and I go to special trouble to get these darling little tendrils to fall just so. I like to feel like I am a Princess."	Two straight braids say, "I am more practical and have work to do. But I do have lovely hair, even though I like to keep it neat and out of the way at times. I dare to be natural"	One large braid high on the side says, "I dare to be different. It's fun to be original and creative, and who wants to do the same old boring things over and over. I know it's only noon, but do you know where there is a party?"

 

The Universal language can be applied to anything from choosing curtains to carving a pumpkin. Looking at things from line awareness makes life so interesting.

Cartoon Lines Cartoonists certainly understand this language. Scrooge is drawn with sharp and angled features, giving a feeling of pinched, non-emotional hard surfaces. Dear Old Santa Claus just has to be full of round, friendly, good-natured jolly lines.

 

Oval Winter lines are always more "classic", sophisticated, standard in the sense that their medium non-extreme quality lasts forever.

Circle Summer lines are always more youthful and delicate, "baroque" in the sense that they are refined down to subtle elegance.

Square Autumn lines are always more plain, rough hewn, sturdy "frontier" quality that is durable, practical and unpretentious.

Triangle Spring lines always have a more dramatic, trendy, arty "Picasso" quality of breaking through into the new, modern and untried.